After a week in Nakhon Nayok I had passed my 'out in the sticks' threshold and it was time to move on. It was a good stay. We did songkhran. I filled in a couple of days by checking out the local golf course. Royal Hills is a very nice course with a good range of facilities. The place is a very nice addition to my entertainment options while I am on 'sticks' duty. They even have UBC so I can get my Spurs action with English commentary instead of having to drive into town and watch it in the local music bar while the band insist on playing Hotel California because a farang is in the bar. This week, even Spurs didn't let me down. They got a 1-0 win over Newcastle that puts us firmly in the hunt for European places. It is strange that a football result actually affects my mood but it really does. I have had an extra spring in m,y step for the last couple of days.
So it was time to move on. We have driven to Koh Chang in Trat. I like Koh Chang. It has certainly developed a lot in the last few years but I think it still retains a bit of a laid back, beach-bum feel to it. It does have fantastic beaches. The prices are obviously a little touristy, but only a little. It is all still much cheaper than Phuket.
We have a nice big bungalow in the trees by the beach for 800 baht a night. The resort sells big bottles of beer for 80-baht, a good bowl of Tom Yam Goong is also 80-baht.
There are plenty of bars and restaurants around. Certainly no problem finding the football here. Basically, they now have everything you need but still at reasonable prices and with a nice laid back feel.
The island is developing rapidly, even from the last time I visited two years ago. There are lots of new resorts and quite a few of the old back-packer huts have disappeared. You can't stop development but hopefully they will contain it and maintain the nice relaxed atmosphere.
Tuesday, 21 April 2009
Monday, 13 April 2009
Back to Nakhon Nayok
It is time for our annual trip to Nakhon Nayok. We normally take our time driving up but this year the timing was so close to Songkhran that we just got on with the drive. As it turned out, we timed it perfectly. As we drove north from Phuket towards Bangkok, we had nice clear roads while all the way there were traffic jams on the other side of the road heading south. The traffic was heavy as we bypassed Bangkok but we soon found open road again and reached Nakhon Nayok in record time.
The weather was fairly crap for the whole trip and there was a full on thunderstorm as we arrived. It seems like the rainy season has arrived early this year. This is a shame as half the point of Songkhran is that it is normally the hottest time of year and a perfect time for a good water fight. There is not much point in having a water fight during a rain storm. Well fortunately, today is Songkhran proper and the weather has cleared here just in time. It is a nice sunny day outside and the water fights are in full swing.
Nakhon Nayok is still the same. Everyone is very friendly. There is lots of good food and it is all very picturesque. Lots of people come from Bangkok every weekend to play in the rivers and waterfalls and there will be more than normal for Songkhran.
We normally make this a 2 or 3 week trip but we have got here so quickly that I don't know what I will do to fill the time. I enjoy taking it easy in Nakhon Nayok for about a week but then the novelty wears off and I want to move again. We will need a plan to fill our time.
The weather was fairly crap for the whole trip and there was a full on thunderstorm as we arrived. It seems like the rainy season has arrived early this year. This is a shame as half the point of Songkhran is that it is normally the hottest time of year and a perfect time for a good water fight. There is not much point in having a water fight during a rain storm. Well fortunately, today is Songkhran proper and the weather has cleared here just in time. It is a nice sunny day outside and the water fights are in full swing.
Nakhon Nayok is still the same. Everyone is very friendly. There is lots of good food and it is all very picturesque. Lots of people come from Bangkok every weekend to play in the rivers and waterfalls and there will be more than normal for Songkhran.
We normally make this a 2 or 3 week trip but we have got here so quickly that I don't know what I will do to fill the time. I enjoy taking it easy in Nakhon Nayok for about a week but then the novelty wears off and I want to move again. We will need a plan to fill our time.
Monday, 6 April 2009
Koh Racha Islands
I do like a trip to a nice island. If it has a good beach and some decent snorkeling then that is ideal. Hopefully, it will not be too crowded but will have a few restaurants and bars. All the better if we can stay for a night or two to really chill out and appreciate the place. So when a few of our local Thai friends invited us to join them on a trip to Koh Racha, I was more than happy to accept. A couple of them work for one of the major hotels in Phuket and they had a very good deal on a speedboat tour and bungalow resort.
There are two islands, Koh Racha Yai & Noi. They are a fair distance out from Phuket and it takes dive boats well over an hour to get out there. Taking the speedboat really makes a difference. We zipped across from Chalong pier in half an hour and moored at the pier in Patok Bay at Koh Racha Yai. There is a great beach in this bay. There is also a posh 5-star resort and a handful of shops and restaurants.
I have visited Koh Racha a few times before on diving and fishing trips. Obviously, this involves spending most of your time on the water so I had never really had a look inside the island. Looking from the sea, I always assumed there was nothing much within the islands except for jungle. I was therefore quite surprised when our bungalow resort picked us up from the beach (with a tractor and trailer) and whisked us into the island. There are tracks and pathways around the island. Along the tracks are a few rustic little bungalow resorts, restaurants and coconut plantations.
Our bungalows were at the Raya Father Resort. It has pleasant little bungalows for 1000-baht a night (unless you are getting a special deal like us). There is a restaurant, internet shop and a little garden. We settled in and then went back to Patok Bay where our speedboat was waiting to take us for a cruise around Racha Yai. There is some great snorkeling around the Racha islands and we even saw a dolphin jump out the water.
After the cruise, our resort provided lunch (all included) and then we wandered across to the island’s other major beach in Siam Bay for the afternoon. It is a beautiful, quiet and laid back beach. We spent a lazy afternoon swimming and sleeping. We spent the evening at our bungalow resort eating and drinking.
It is all just the sort of stuff I like from an island trip. Good beaches, good snorkeling, friendly locals and relaxing evenings by the bungalow supping a few beers (well quite a lot of beers).
The food and drink prices at the outlying islands are generally a little higher than on Phuket, as they have to bring everything out by boat. We did a trip to Coral Island a few weeks ago where they were massively overcharging and we won’t be going back to that beach again. The prices at Racha Yai are what you would expect to pay at the islands and are reasonable. The Racha Islands are a good option for a few days island getaway.
There are two islands, Koh Racha Yai & Noi. They are a fair distance out from Phuket and it takes dive boats well over an hour to get out there. Taking the speedboat really makes a difference. We zipped across from Chalong pier in half an hour and moored at the pier in Patok Bay at Koh Racha Yai. There is a great beach in this bay. There is also a posh 5-star resort and a handful of shops and restaurants.
I have visited Koh Racha a few times before on diving and fishing trips. Obviously, this involves spending most of your time on the water so I had never really had a look inside the island. Looking from the sea, I always assumed there was nothing much within the islands except for jungle. I was therefore quite surprised when our bungalow resort picked us up from the beach (with a tractor and trailer) and whisked us into the island. There are tracks and pathways around the island. Along the tracks are a few rustic little bungalow resorts, restaurants and coconut plantations.
Our bungalows were at the Raya Father Resort. It has pleasant little bungalows for 1000-baht a night (unless you are getting a special deal like us). There is a restaurant, internet shop and a little garden. We settled in and then went back to Patok Bay where our speedboat was waiting to take us for a cruise around Racha Yai. There is some great snorkeling around the Racha islands and we even saw a dolphin jump out the water.After the cruise, our resort provided lunch (all included) and then we wandered across to the island’s other major beach in Siam Bay for the afternoon. It is a beautiful, quiet and laid back beach. We spent a lazy afternoon swimming and sleeping. We spent the evening at our bungalow resort eating and drinking.
It is all just the sort of stuff I like from an island trip. Good beaches, good snorkeling, friendly locals and relaxing evenings by the bungalow supping a few beers (well quite a lot of beers).
The food and drink prices at the outlying islands are generally a little higher than on Phuket, as they have to bring everything out by boat. We did a trip to Coral Island a few weeks ago where they were massively overcharging and we won’t be going back to that beach again. The prices at Racha Yai are what you would expect to pay at the islands and are reasonable. The Racha Islands are a good option for a few days island getaway.
Tuesday, 24 March 2009
School Holidays
The main Thai school holidays have started. They last for two months from the middle of March until the middle of May. It is the hottest time of the year and it also covers Thai New Year. So every day Ben and Jenny are scrambling around the house from morning to night. I had forgotten how peaceful it is when they are both at school.
In one way, I look forward to the school holidays because school days are a bit of an effort. We need to do the bedtime routine and get the kids to bed early the night before. We need to get up early, cajole the kids through the morning routine and then get them to school. We need to pick the kids up in the afternoon. It is all a bit limiting on what we can do in the day. Now the school holidays have started, we can do whatever we want.
On the other hand, after a couple of weeks of school holidays, I start to miss the order and routine of school days. During school holidays, we often get lazy about putting the kids to bed. It is easier to let them play until they are exhausted and fall asleep. They are remorseless and play all day. We have to try to keep up, control their exuberance, referee their little quarrels and generally limit the damage. It is great to see them so active and happy but it also leaves us feeling quite exhausted by the end of the day.
We haven’t done anything special yet this holiday. At the moment, Pon is suffering from tendonitis in her shoulder so she is a bit limited in what she can do. We go for the odd trip to the beach, park or a restaurant.
This is also the time of year we usually do our annual trip to Pon’s home village. We drive around, find a few nice spots to stay between here and there, spend a week at the village and then come back. As pon is currently suffering a little, we will give it at least another couple of weeks to clear up before we think about going.
In one way, I look forward to the school holidays because school days are a bit of an effort. We need to do the bedtime routine and get the kids to bed early the night before. We need to get up early, cajole the kids through the morning routine and then get them to school. We need to pick the kids up in the afternoon. It is all a bit limiting on what we can do in the day. Now the school holidays have started, we can do whatever we want.
On the other hand, after a couple of weeks of school holidays, I start to miss the order and routine of school days. During school holidays, we often get lazy about putting the kids to bed. It is easier to let them play until they are exhausted and fall asleep. They are remorseless and play all day. We have to try to keep up, control their exuberance, referee their little quarrels and generally limit the damage. It is great to see them so active and happy but it also leaves us feeling quite exhausted by the end of the day.
We haven’t done anything special yet this holiday. At the moment, Pon is suffering from tendonitis in her shoulder so she is a bit limited in what she can do. We go for the odd trip to the beach, park or a restaurant.
This is also the time of year we usually do our annual trip to Pon’s home village. We drive around, find a few nice spots to stay between here and there, spend a week at the village and then come back. As pon is currently suffering a little, we will give it at least another couple of weeks to clear up before we think about going.
Saturday, 21 February 2009
Phi Phi Islands
Last weekend a gang of us spent the weekend at the Phi Phi islands. It is funny that somehow, with such a beautiful place only an easy boat ride away, that I have only been out there a handful of times and have not stayed overnight since my first visit to Thailand 9 years ago.
Well this weekend everything slipped into place for a trip away. We had a few friends around who were free for the trip so 11 of us set out for Phi Phi. You get the ferry at Rassada Port, which is the other side of Phuket Town. They leave about 8:30 in the morning and the return fair is about 600-baht.
Phi Phi has changed a lot since the first time I stayed and jeez, Phi Phi is busy. With the rest of Thailand suffering a tourism downturn, I assumed things would be relatively quiet at Phi Phi. How wrong I was. Phi Phi seems to be immune from the credit crunch. There are at least a dozen ferries doing the return trip daily from Phuket and also from Krabi and Ao Nang. There are dozens of speedboats buzzing day-trippers around the islands. Maya Bay (made famous in the movie ‘The Beach’) was crammed.
Still there is no denying the beauty of the place. The limestone cliffs are stunning and at this time of the year, the sea is flat, blue and inviting. There are some good diving sites and some of the snorkeling is quite sumptuous.
The ferry docks at Tonsai Bay. I saw this area not long after the tsunami and it was flattened. You would never know now. There are two bays here that almost meet. They are separated by a sandy plain only 200-meters wide. This entire strip of land has now been developed with hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and bars.
We wanted some cheap beach bungalows, which we thought would be easy enough to find. Well it wasn’t that easy. We found a few basic bamboo huts starting from 800-baht a night but we ended up settling on some slightly plusher bungalows for 1,500 baht. They were next to the beach (the one opposite where the ferries land). This area also seems to have become a bit of a party area for the young crowd. They have nightly beach parties with disco music and spinning flame sticks.
In the evening, we looked for a relaxing restaurant. Every restaurant was full, they are all doing great business. We finally found a place where they could squeeze in 11 people and had a decent meal. Then we drank beer on the beach while watching the party revelers and the spinning flame sticks.
The next day we hired a longtail boat to look around Phi Phi. It was a lovely trip. We visited Monkey Beach and despite the number of people, we still found a couple of isolated coves that were beautiful and quiet. We found some lovely snorkeling. Ben may only be 5 but he wasn’t going to be left out so he soon had his life-jacket and mask on and was swimming amongst the fish.
We all thoroughly enjoyed the trip although it wasn’t exactly what we had expected. Phi Phi is certainly changing. There are more 4-star hotels and less backpacking accommodation. It seems that Phi Phi is going a bit more up-market. There also seems to be a large young party crowd. In fact, there is quite a crowd, full stop.
Despite the crowds, Phi Phi still has a lot to offer and I hope it will not be another 9-years before we go and stay over again.
Well this weekend everything slipped into place for a trip away. We had a few friends around who were free for the trip so 11 of us set out for Phi Phi. You get the ferry at Rassada Port, which is the other side of Phuket Town. They leave about 8:30 in the morning and the return fair is about 600-baht.
Phi Phi has changed a lot since the first time I stayed and jeez, Phi Phi is busy. With the rest of Thailand suffering a tourism downturn, I assumed things would be relatively quiet at Phi Phi. How wrong I was. Phi Phi seems to be immune from the credit crunch. There are at least a dozen ferries doing the return trip daily from Phuket and also from Krabi and Ao Nang. There are dozens of speedboats buzzing day-trippers around the islands. Maya Bay (made famous in the movie ‘The Beach’) was crammed.
Still there is no denying the beauty of the place. The limestone cliffs are stunning and at this time of the year, the sea is flat, blue and inviting. There are some good diving sites and some of the snorkeling is quite sumptuous.
The ferry docks at Tonsai Bay. I saw this area not long after the tsunami and it was flattened. You would never know now. There are two bays here that almost meet. They are separated by a sandy plain only 200-meters wide. This entire strip of land has now been developed with hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and bars.
We wanted some cheap beach bungalows, which we thought would be easy enough to find. Well it wasn’t that easy. We found a few basic bamboo huts starting from 800-baht a night but we ended up settling on some slightly plusher bungalows for 1,500 baht. They were next to the beach (the one opposite where the ferries land). This area also seems to have become a bit of a party area for the young crowd. They have nightly beach parties with disco music and spinning flame sticks.
In the evening, we looked for a relaxing restaurant. Every restaurant was full, they are all doing great business. We finally found a place where they could squeeze in 11 people and had a decent meal. Then we drank beer on the beach while watching the party revelers and the spinning flame sticks.
The next day we hired a longtail boat to look around Phi Phi. It was a lovely trip. We visited Monkey Beach and despite the number of people, we still found a couple of isolated coves that were beautiful and quiet. We found some lovely snorkeling. Ben may only be 5 but he wasn’t going to be left out so he soon had his life-jacket and mask on and was swimming amongst the fish.
We all thoroughly enjoyed the trip although it wasn’t exactly what we had expected. Phi Phi is certainly changing. There are more 4-star hotels and less backpacking accommodation. It seems that Phi Phi is going a bit more up-market. There also seems to be a large young party crowd. In fact, there is quite a crowd, full stop.
Despite the crowds, Phi Phi still has a lot to offer and I hope it will not be another 9-years before we go and stay over again.
Thursday, 15 January 2009
Visas and Stuff
There are always things going on in Phuket. We have recently had children’s day, a fair at Saphan Hin, a party at the university and soon it will be Chinese New Year. It all helps to keep Phuket fun. As well as all the regular attractions such as trips to the beach, you also have these special events for a bit of variation. It is not as if you are ever really struggling to find things to do.
I have just got back from my annual (well 15-monthly) visit to Penang to renew my marriage visa. I normally get a 1-year multi-entry. This visa allows you to stay for 90-days each visit, as many visits as you want for the 1-year duration of the visa. That is, you have to do a visa run every 90-days by hopping over the border to another country and hopping back again. It was an arrangement I was happy enough to accept. A visa run every 3-months is not a great hardship and we usually turn it into a family trip.
It is the fourth time I have made the Penang trip and I was beginning to look on it as a formality. Well this time I got a bit of a surprise as the consul turned down my application for a multi-entry and only gave me a single-entry 90-day visa. It goes to show you can never take anything for granted. The problem is the various Thai consuls around the region can and do apply their own interpretations of the regulations. In this case, they said I should have 800,000 baht in the bank (actually twice as much as is required for the 1-year extension of stay).
It is no use jumping up and down about these things. You have to accept them and find the best way of working with them. So I have 3-months to work out another visa option such as applying for the 1-year extension of stay. If not, then I do know people who actually go to Penang every 3-months. I really do not fancy that option but it is there as a last resort.
For the moment, it is nice to be back home. Tomorrow is teacher’s day so it is a day off school. I think we will go out somewhere.
I have just got back from my annual (well 15-monthly) visit to Penang to renew my marriage visa. I normally get a 1-year multi-entry. This visa allows you to stay for 90-days each visit, as many visits as you want for the 1-year duration of the visa. That is, you have to do a visa run every 90-days by hopping over the border to another country and hopping back again. It was an arrangement I was happy enough to accept. A visa run every 3-months is not a great hardship and we usually turn it into a family trip.
It is the fourth time I have made the Penang trip and I was beginning to look on it as a formality. Well this time I got a bit of a surprise as the consul turned down my application for a multi-entry and only gave me a single-entry 90-day visa. It goes to show you can never take anything for granted. The problem is the various Thai consuls around the region can and do apply their own interpretations of the regulations. In this case, they said I should have 800,000 baht in the bank (actually twice as much as is required for the 1-year extension of stay).
It is no use jumping up and down about these things. You have to accept them and find the best way of working with them. So I have 3-months to work out another visa option such as applying for the 1-year extension of stay. If not, then I do know people who actually go to Penang every 3-months. I really do not fancy that option but it is there as a last resort.
For the moment, it is nice to be back home. Tomorrow is teacher’s day so it is a day off school. I think we will go out somewhere.
Sunday, 4 January 2009
New Year in Phuket
Last year we welcomed in the New Year at Patong. It was actually generally a very unpleasant evening and we swore we would not do New Year in Patong again. So, this year we went for a very different option – camping at Nai Yang Beach.
We have camped at Nai Yang before but we weren’t quite sure what to expect at New Year. We thought it might be busy, it is a Thai holiday and the Thais do enjoy camping. Well there were plenty of people there during the day – certainly compared to normal but still a lot less than an average day at Patong. Many of these people came like us, to set up camp for the night. It was enough people to make it feel like it was a special night out but not so many to feel crowded.
The camping area at Nai Yang Beach is in a national park. They have recently started charging the full 200-baht entrance fee for foreigners but we had no problem convincing the attendants we were local residents and therefore entitled to pay the local 40-baht entrance price.
Most people want to camp in the area under the trees by the beach. This means you have to bring your own tent – if you rent tents from the park they insist you camp in the designated camping area on the other side of the road. We bought our own tents and bbq and set up camp right next to the beach. We spent the day dipping in the sea between drinking a few beers and eating from the bbq. The sun set so we spent more time drinking and eating.
Our kids were having a great time on the beach. First, they dug quite an impressive hole. We left them to it so I was a little surprised when I was told I must go to the beach to see the work of art they had created. It was quite amazing. There was a wonderful mixed group of kids beavering away, creating a truly impressive masterpiece. They had formed a series of concentric circles around the hole framed with a couple of triangles. If the ancients had done it, it would have been declared one of the wonders of the world. Okay, that is a slight exaggeration but here was this mix of young children, naturally working in unison and with great enthusiasm to create a lovely little masterpiece on the beach. An hour later, the tide washed it away.
A few of the campers had bought their own fireworks. From Nai Yang, there is a fantastic view along Mai Khao Beach. As midnight approached, you could see the firework displays kicking off from the few resorts along that beach such as the Marriott. It made a lovely sight.
The next day we did more of the same. Fresh fish on the bbq, a few beers from the ice box and swimming in the sea. It was a vast improvement on the previous year and a much better way for the whole family to welcome the New Year.
We have camped at Nai Yang before but we weren’t quite sure what to expect at New Year. We thought it might be busy, it is a Thai holiday and the Thais do enjoy camping. Well there were plenty of people there during the day – certainly compared to normal but still a lot less than an average day at Patong. Many of these people came like us, to set up camp for the night. It was enough people to make it feel like it was a special night out but not so many to feel crowded.
The camping area at Nai Yang Beach is in a national park. They have recently started charging the full 200-baht entrance fee for foreigners but we had no problem convincing the attendants we were local residents and therefore entitled to pay the local 40-baht entrance price.
Most people want to camp in the area under the trees by the beach. This means you have to bring your own tent – if you rent tents from the park they insist you camp in the designated camping area on the other side of the road. We bought our own tents and bbq and set up camp right next to the beach. We spent the day dipping in the sea between drinking a few beers and eating from the bbq. The sun set so we spent more time drinking and eating.Our kids were having a great time on the beach. First, they dug quite an impressive hole. We left them to it so I was a little surprised when I was told I must go to the beach to see the work of art they had created. It was quite amazing. There was a wonderful mixed group of kids beavering away, creating a truly impressive masterpiece. They had formed a series of concentric circles around the hole framed with a couple of triangles. If the ancients had done it, it would have been declared one of the wonders of the world. Okay, that is a slight exaggeration but here was this mix of young children, naturally working in unison and with great enthusiasm to create a lovely little masterpiece on the beach. An hour later, the tide washed it away.
A few of the campers had bought their own fireworks. From Nai Yang, there is a fantastic view along Mai Khao Beach. As midnight approached, you could see the firework displays kicking off from the few resorts along that beach such as the Marriott. It made a lovely sight.
The next day we did more of the same. Fresh fish on the bbq, a few beers from the ice box and swimming in the sea. It was a vast improvement on the previous year and a much better way for the whole family to welcome the New Year.
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